Pain Brié #BreadBakers

 

This traditional Norman bread is named for the pounding or beating that the dough is subjected to during the long kneading period.  It was a bread meant to last and was sent off with fishermen and sailors; a low hydration bread with a tight crumb, but also a spongy and soft texture, full of flavor.  The long preferment is what imparts the complex flavor, and the long kneading and lower hydration, the texture.  Indeed, the slices of this loaf were still soft and spongy and good to eat fresh 40 hours later, having been fully sliced and stored only in a bread bag.  Normally I would have switched to toasting for other loaves by then.

Now fair warning, this is a dough with quite a lower hydration than the typical 65% of an easy sandwich loaf.  At a very firm 47.7% hydration, I would say this is definitely not a good fit for arthritic hands!  It's probably why they would pound it with a pin or pounding tool rather than knead as for a regular dough.  I wonder if the original loaves used the 'old dough' method since this is one of the very few cases where salt is included in the preferment.  To ease the strain on the hands, add in rest periods while kneading, or just go with the old technique of folding and beating in the flour.  I did a lot of just knuckle fold kneading.  The dough will be very firm and knobby from the lower hydration, but with just one 15 minutes rest, it will turn to a smooth surface more like silky, soft clay.

 Because of the hydration, this bread should be proved to just under full doubling.  Mine had a beautiful light and hollow thump when I pulled it out to cool.  A friend commented that it looked like a bike helmet and I about guffawed.  It does look like a bike helmet!  I used the steam method but I quite suspect that this loaf would work very well using the Dutch oven method and I would be tempted to add a little rye to it.  It really reminds me of breakfast diner white toast, firm but still soft, and un-toasted it has a soft, velvety crumb.  It is not heavy though, just a tight crumb.  It was lovely both toasted and fresh, and enjoyed with butter and lemon marmalade.  If I were to make it again, I would likely not do the traditional deep slashing and go for standard slashing for a Dutch oven.  I know the reason for the deep slash is the low hydration, but it might be fun to see what happens.

 Pain Brié
from Bake Street
this half batch makes one small loaf (typical recipe is double for two loaves)

For the Pâte fermentée:

    225 g bread flour
    135 g water
    0.75 g dry yeast
    4 g salt

For the dough:

    345 g pâte fermentée (It was only a ~15g difference, I used it all)
    125 g bread flour
    32 g water*
    23 g unsalted butter at room temperature
    0.7 g dry yeast
    2.2 g salt

* If using all purpose flour, reduce the amount of water.  Start with 20g and add more little by little, while kneading to achieve proper gluten development and hydration. 

The night before, prepare the preferment (pâte fermentée).

In a stand mixer combine the ingredients and mix on low just until everything is combined and no dry ingredients remain.  You can also stir it together and knead until combined by hand in a bowl.

Cover and leave it to ferment for 10-12 hours at room temperature.  (Summer temps may require refrigeration overnight after the ferment has increased by a third.)

Mine perked well by 16 hours after adding a little warmth to the kitchen.

The next day make the final dough.

    In a large bowl add 345 g of pâte fermentée along with the flour, water and yeast.  (I used all the preferment).  Mix until you get a somewhat homogeneous dough.  It will take time to work in the dry bits.  When a good portion has been incorporated, add the salt and mix again until it is integrated.

Finally, add the butter and knead to integrate it and develop the gluten.  This can be done in stages to avoid suffering too much and the dough can be folded over and pounded with a rolling pin or kneaded down with body weight on knuckles.  Rest for 10 minutes or so between bouts and remember to cover the dough at each time because it dries out very easily and the surface will crust over.

Once the dough is fully incorporated with all flour and the butter, give it one more rest as it will likely be very bumpy.  Then knead once more, lightly, until you get a dough with a smooth and soft surface.  It will be silky and have a soft, firm texture.

Cover it and leave it to rest for 15 minutes.

Preshape gently, cover with plastic and leave to rest for 15 minutes.

Take the dough and gently shape it into an oval batard, pinching the edges together firmly.

Put the piece on a linen cloth, sprinkled lightly with flour.

Cover with plastic to prevent drying and then with the edges of the cloth.

Let it ferment for 90-120 minutes.  For my winter kitchen it was about 150 minutes.  The volume should almost double.

To bake:

Preheat the oven to 460ºF about 30-40 minutes before the dough is ready to bake.

Prepare a dish or tray to have hot water for steam.  Some bakers use lava rocks in the trays to facilitate steaming.  Use a baking stone or steel if you have one, or a heavy baking sheet, preheated in the oven.

Five minutes before placing the bread in the oven, heat some water to boiling (a little more than half a cup).

Gently transfer the loaf to a baking peel or sheet with baking paper.

With the help of a blade, make a central vertical cut that goes from one end to the other of the bread.  Follow with 3 parallel cuts on each side of the center cut.  A serrated blade works well, or a moistened lame or sharp knife.

The cuts should be fairly deep to open the bread.  (This works with the low hydration of the bread and that it is proved just short of doubling).

Quickly place the batard in the oven, sliding the bread onto the steel or baking stone, pour boiling water on the tray with stones, and close the door.   Turn the heat to 445ºF.

Bake for 10 minutes.  After these first 10 minutes, open the door slightly to release all the steam from the inside, then remove the steam tray and close the door again.

Bake for 15 minutes more at 425ºF.

Take the pain brié out of the oven and let it cool completely on a rack before cutting it.

If making two loaves for a full batch, they may be baked together due to their small size.

 Here are some other French breads to peruse:

• A Day in the Life on the Farm: Brioche 
• Food Lust People Love: Cheater Pain aux Raisins 
• The Wimpy Vegetarian : Fougasse 
• Karen's Kitchen Stories: La Couronne Lyonaise 
• Culinary Cam: Pain au Chocolat 
• A Messy Kitchen: Pain Brié 
• Zesty South Indian Kitchen: Pain de campagne 
• Sneha's Recipe : Sourdough French Bread

 

#BreadBakers is a group of bread loving bakers who get together once a month to bake bread with a common ingredient or theme. You can see all our of lovely bread by following our Pinterest board right here. Links are also updated after each event on the #BreadBakers home page. We take turns hosting each month and choosing the theme/ingredient. If you are a food blogger and would like to join us, just send Stacy an email with your blog URL to foodlustpeoplelove@gmail.com.