Black Bottom Nesselrode Pie

Here is a pie that very few people nowadays have ever heard of.  The original Nesselrode Pie was a recipe of bygone days.  You don't find it in restaurants or bakeries, it's basically extinct, but it is a fond memory for old New York residents.  The name has its origins from a pudding named after and created for a Russian diplomat in Paris.  The New York iteration of nesselrode pie was popularized by Hortense Spier, who started her pie business after her restaurant closed before WWII.  It was a fairly common pie through the 50s and then it just faded out, never to be seen again.  Well, almost never, there are one or two nostalgic bakers that have recreated it on occasion.

Nesselrode pie is really a classic chiffon filling in a pie shell.  I adore chiffon and cream pies of this style.  (Chiffons typically are lightened with whipped egg whites while Bavarian cream is lightened with whipped cream.) Actually chiffon desserts were quite popular from the 30s to 50s and beyond.  My Chocolate Pecan chiffon pie was based off an old newspaper vintage recipe selection for a chiffon pudding.  The last one I came up with was my Hibiscus Lime Ginger Cream pie, but it all started out with lemon chiffon and black bottom pies.  My version of nesselrode pie holds a bit of poignant significance for me, inspired by a friend's father.  He was a wonderfully charming man, twinkling demeanor and personality, a rich tenor singing voice, with steadfast patience and a delightful sense of humor.  He loved black bottom pie and I made it especially for his enjoyment when we would get together for gatherings at my friend's house.  The original black bottom pie is a dark chocolate pudding base with a rum flavored chiffon top and the original nesselrode pie was predominantly flavored with candied chestnuts and rum and some candied fruits.  I have combined elements of the two and this pie is dedicated with love to the memory of Carl Nims.

Black Bottom Nesselrode Pie

1 baked and cooled 9-inch pie shell (use your favorite recipe or even store bought)
  
Chocolate chestnut mousse:
5 oz. vacuum-packed or jarred roasted or steamed chestnuts (about 1 cup)
1 cup whole milk
¼ cup sugar
¼ tsp salt
½ Tbsp vanilla extract
3 oz. bittersweet chocolate
¾ cup heavy cream

Nesselrode chiffon:
1 tbsp gelatin
1-2 tbsp rum (2 if you really like rum flavor, 1 if you just want a hint)
¾ cup sugar, divided
4 eggs, separated
1½ cups whole milk
½ cup chopped, drained luxardo or amarena cherries
⅛ tsp salt
1 tsp vanilla
¼ tsp cream of tartar
¾ cup heavy whipping cream

Topping:
1 cup heavy whipping cream
1 tbsp powdered sugar
halved candied chestnuts** (around 14 pieces)
luxardo or amarena dark cherries, drained and dried (around 14)
chopped, candied orange or other citrus peel (optional)

For the chocolate chestnut mousse:

Finely chop the chocolate and set aside.

In a medium saucepan over med-high heat, combine chestnuts, milk, sugar, and salt.  Bring just to a boil then reduce heat to a simmer.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about 25% and the chestnuts smash fairly easily, about 15 minutes.  Remove the mixture from heat and stir in the vanilla.

Transfer to a blender or food processor and blend first on low and then increasing to high speed until the mixture is smooth, about 2 minutes.  Add chopped chocolate and blend on high speed until chocolate is melted, about 30 seconds. Scrape into a large bowl and let cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, 15–20 minutes.

In a medium bowl,  whip the cream until it hold medium peaks. Stir one-third of cream into chocolate mixture to lighten it, then fold in remaining cream just until incorporated. Transfer to the pie shell and refrigerate for an hour or so until partially set.  (There may be enough to generously fill the bottom half of the pie and maybe have a dish leftover depending on the size of the pie pan.)

I loved the chocolate with the rum and would
add more next time, saving less for dishes.

While the bottom layer is chilling, make the next layer.

For the chiffon filling:

Combine 6 tbsp sugar and gelatin in a 2 Qt saucepan.  Blend egg yolks and milk together and add to sugar mixture.  Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly just until the mixture thickens and starts to simmer.  (Don't let it boil, if the custard gets much above 175ºF it may break and scramble.)

 

Remove from heat and stir in salt, rum, vanilla.  Chill in the refrigerator or an ice bath, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens and mounds up slightly when dropped from a spoon.
 

Combine the egg whites, cream of tartar, and 6 tbsp sugar in a heat-proof mixing bowl. Whisk the mixture slightly, to break up the egg whites.  Set the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water on the stove.  (The water should not touch the bowl.)*  

Heat the mixture, whisking constantly, until the egg white mixture is hot to the touch and has reached 160º F (70º C) on an instant-read thermometer.  

Immediately remove the bowl from the heat and whip with an electric mixer until the meringue forms medium-stiff glossy peaks.  Cool to room temperature and fold into custard along with the chopped cherries.  

Whip the heavy cream until stiff.  Fold into mixture.  Pile into the cooled pie shell, spreading over the chilled mousse layer.

*Or use a double boiler. 

For the topping:

Whip the cream with the powdered sugar until stiff peaks form.  Pipe swirls or rosettes onto the edge of the pie.  

Place a cherry and a slice of the candied chestnut pieces on each of the swirls of whipped cream, or evenly spaced as desired around the edge of the pie.  

Sprinkle the chopped citrus peel around the edge of the pie if using.  

Refrigerate for a few hours to fully set. 

 

 ** The Italian candied chestnuts that I used were amazing!  Huge, soft, perfectly candied and delicious.  

I used amarena cherries and they were wonderful, intensely flavored and with a tartness that helps cut the sweet of the chiffon.

The chestnut mousse is also not too sweet and a wonderful balance for the rum chiffon and quite honestly, I would not ever make the pie without it as the original was presented.