Sunday, October 16, 2016

Bagel Time with the BBB

This was my first time making bagels.  Well, it was actually my first and second time, because I had to work out some wrinkles in my method.  Our host kitchen at Karen's Kitchen Stories decided that this month would be the time for bagels.  More specifically Asiago cheese bagels, which are evidently a coveted item in an assorted bagel box from Panera Bread.  Wait a minute though, those bagels in the picture aren't cheese bagels...  Yeah, well it took me another try to get my bagels to turn out properly and look like bagels should look, so I chose a different flavor the second time and that picture comes first.  Besides, I am the only person in the family who ever eats bagels and definitely the only cheese bagel person.  Boy did I hear it about the smell of the Asiago!  I thought it smelled wonderful, like an artisan grilled cheese smell.  Nope, it was stinky cheese to the rest of the fam.  ☺  Gotta say though, the cheese ones were quite delicious toasted and buttered, even if they were a little flat.

You'll find out how to avoid flat bagels here when I explain what happened.  I learned my lesson and the next batch were nice and round.  I made them a bit smaller as well.  Bagels are very filling, no need to make them giant gut busters.  Most bagels tend to be around 113g before baking and I ended up going just a little smaller at 96g but got an extra couples bagels out of it.

The cool thing about this recipe is that you start with a simple bagel dough and then can adjust the ingredients or toppings for the flavor desired.  For my second run, I chose a cranberry ginger bagel and simply kneaded 6oz of dried cranberries and 1oz of crystallized ginger chips into the dough.  This is a great recipe to try because the dough is very easy to work with since it is a comparatively dry dough.  And you can make your favorite flavor!  We'd love for you to bake along with us this month.  Simply choose your flavor, boil and bake some bagels, and send a picture and/or your post to our host kitchen by the 29th.  Your post/picture will be included in a buddy round-up and you will receive a "buddy badge" graphic to include in your post and brag about.  You can make a half batch easily and end up with 5 beautiful bagels that will also freeze well.  And here is the recipe, adapted from Peter Reinhart's artisan breads everyday.  I used a combination of about one third light spelt and two thirds all purpose, which gave me a nice, chewy bagel because of the strong gluten in the spelt.

Asiago Bagels
Makes 8 bagels

1 tbsp barley malt syrup (or honey), or 1 tsp (7g) diastatic malt powder
1 tsp (3g) instant yeast
1½ tsp salt (10.5g)
1 cup + 2 tbsp (255g) lukewarm water
3½ cups (454g) unbleached bread flour 
3oz (87g) grated Asiago cheese (optional for cheese flavor)

Poaching liquid:
2-3 Qts water (181-272g)
1½ tbsp barley malt syrup or honey (optional)
1 tbsp baking soda (14g)
1 tsp salt (7g)

¾ cup grated Asiago cheese (1.5oz) (or whatever topping you prefer)

     For the dough, dissolve the malt syrup or honey, yeast and salt in the lukewarm water in the bowl of a stand mixer.  Add the flour and mix on low speed 1 with the dough hook for three minutes to blend well.  The dough should be stiff and coarse in a ball, with all the flour incorporated.  If there is still some dry flour, stir in a little more water.  Let the dough relax for 5 minutes.
     Add the cheese and mix again for three minutes on low, or gently by hand until the dough has smoothed out and the gluten is developed.  It will be stiff and supple, satiny and barely tacky.  If it feels too soft or very tacky, work in a bit more flour.  Don't worry if some bits of cheese poke or fall out.  Cover and let the dough rest and rise for an hour at room temp.
     To shape the bagels, line a sheet pan (or two) with parchment and spray it with cooking spray or lightly coat with oil.  Divide the dough into 8 pieces or more as desired.  (Bagels are generally 4oz or 113g before baking.)  Form each portion into a ball by pinching together the edges and then rolling on a clean surface under your cupped hand.  (Don't use flour.)  Choose one of two methods to shape your bagels.
     For the first method, you poke a hole through the center of a ball to make a donut shape, then expand the hole to 2 inches by stretching the hole with your thumbs as you rotate the bagel.  
     The next method is preferred by professional bakers.  Use both hands to roll the ball into a rope, 8-10 inches long on a clean surface.  Taper the ends slightly.  Moisten the last inch or so of the ends and wrap the rope around your hand so that it joins across the palm.  Roll those ends together lightly on the work surface with your palm to seal.  Squeeze to even out the diameter if necessary, leaving a hole of about 2 inches in the middle.

(I tried both methods and found that the second worked best for me to get a nice shape.  And I also found, the second time round, that I didn't even really need to moisten the ends to get a good seal.)

     Place the shaped bagels on the oiled parchment and brush or spray with more oil.  Cover the whole pan with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or as long as 2 days.
       Take the bagels out of the fridge about 60-90 minutes before you plan to bake them.  Immediately check whether the bagels are ready to be baked by using the "float test":  Put one of the bagels in a small bowl of cold water.  If it sinks, shake it off, put it back on the sheet, and try again in 15-20 minutes.  When one bagel passes the float test, they're all ready to be boiled.  If they are ready before the boiling liquid is ready, return them to the fridge so they don't overproof.

Okay, STOP right here and I will explain about flat bagels.  I did as instructed the first time and though my kitchen was not super warm, my bagels were way too proofed by the time I did the float test at about 60 minutes.  That means when I picked them up to poach, they deflated, when they boiled, they wrinkled, and when they baked, they stayed relatively flat.  I also hadn't expected them to be ready yet, so my poaching liquid was not ready and boiling.  Even sticking them back in the fridge didn't help.  For my next batch, I did a float test on one bagel straight out of the fridge and it PASSED.  Now supposedly, when one bagel floats, they are all supposed to float.  Nope.  It depends on where you had to stick the baking sheet in the fridge.  Mine was up at the very top and the bagels at the back were much colder.  So the front ones floated and the back ones sunk.  I don't think an extra 15 minutes for cold bagel dough will hurt the ones that are ready while the sinkers proof a bit more.  You do want them to pass the float test though, because otherwise they will take too long to rise to the surface of the poaching liquid and will end up being dense.  I could tell which ones needed more time because they were still solid and heavy with no rise whatsoever.  The front ones that floated did have a tiny bit of puff to them.  They will expand quite a bit in the water.  If they wrinkle or deflate, they proofed too much before poaching.  Hope that helps!

For the poaching liquid, fill a wide pot with 2-3 Qts water at least 4 inches deep.  Cover and bring to a boil, then keep at a simmer.  Add the malt syrup or honey, baking soda and salt and stir to dissolve.  Preheat the oven to 500º F.
     Gently lower each bagel into the simmering liquid.  Add as many as will easily fit in the pot.  They should float to the surface within 15 seconds.  Use a slotted spoon to turn the bagels after one minute.  Poach for another 30 seconds to a minute and then transfer back to the pan with the slotted spoon.  Place the bagels domed side up.  (Remember that the parchment needs to be oiled or the paper will stick to the bagels during baking.)  Immediately sprinkle the bagels with the cheese topping.  Repeat with the remaining bagels.
     Put the baking sheets in the oven and lower the heat to 450ºF.  (My oven runs hot and my bagels did much better at 425ºF.)  Bake for 8 minutes, then rotate the pan and check the bottoms for brownness.  If they are getting too dark, slip another baking sheet underneath for insulation.  (I used air bake sheets so this was not an issue for me.)  Bake for another 8-12 minutes until golden brown.
     Remove to a wire rack and cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing or serving.

For other flavors, either sprinkle the desired toppings on the bagel as soon as it comes out of the poaching liquid, or to make them stick better, use an egg white wash (1 egg white + 1 tbsp water whisked together) on the bagels before adding toppings.  Anything like dried onions or garlic will need to be re-hydrated for at least and hour before topping, or it will burn in the oven.

For cinnamon raisin bagels, add 8oz of raisins during the last mixing, same as the cheese, and optionally, add a half tsp of cinnamon to the flour during the initial mixing.  Don't top with cinnamon sugar before baking, instead brush the hot bagels with butter after removing from the oven, and dip them into a cinnamon sugar mixture.  Or if you don't want to deal with brushing and dipping, then just slice and toast, butter the inside and sprinkle with cinnamon sugar when you eat it.  It's less messy for storing them that way too.

Whatever flavor you decide to make, you'll enjoy nice fresh bagels from home!

Friday, September 16, 2016

The BBB make Coconut Rolls for the weekend or a holiday

Something simple from our host kitchen this month: Coconut Rolls.  Sweet, simple little buns with slightly exotic flavor.  She asked only that we keep them coconut rolls, since Babes do tend to tweak recipes, myself included.  And I did tweak a little.  I was fairly faithful to the original recipe, save that I added pecans to the filling as well and thickened with cream and an egg instead of corn starch.  Bad corn.  Go away, pesky allergy.  Since that basically made my filling almost identical to that of a German Chocolate Cake, I thought it would be appropriate to try making some of the dough chocolate.  So I looked around for yeasted chocolate bread recipes to check the ratios for cocoa powder, and got baking.  The results were wonderful and my kitchen smelled awesome!  Youngest daughter particularly loved the chocolate buns, while eldest liked the original plain dough best.  They were both delightful.  The dough isn't a sweet dough, so these turn out like a nice, tender, yeast Danish, rich but not too sweet.  Yes, I did take the liberty of adding just a touch of glaze to them.  Not too much, mind you.  Just enough to be pretty.  They are rather plain Jane otherwise.

 I'm pretty sure these will freeze and reheat well, I may be making more in the future for special breakfast options.  Yum.  We'd love for you to bake along with us as a buddy and this is a nice and easy recipe to earn a badge with.  You have until the 29th to make the rolls and pop over to the host kitchen at Notitievanlien to submit a post and/or your picture.  You get a nifty buddy "badge" to add to your post or brag about as well.  If you want to try the chocolate version like I did, the ratio I used was 2 scant tbsp for a half batch, so a scant ¼ cup for the whole batch.  I was using Double Dutch dark cocoa from King Arthur.  And I added back about one tbsp water to the chocolate batch.

Coconut rolls
(makes 12) 

For the dough:
2 Tbsp sugar
160 ml lukewarm water (I reduced by 25% for the spelt flour)
2 tsp dry instant yeast (I used active dry)
300 g bread flour (I used light spelt)
50 ml vegetable oil (melted butter)
¾ tsp salt

For the filling:
80g + 2 Tbsp dried, unsweetened, grated coconut
(if using sweetened coconut, reduce the light brown sugar)
120ml boiling water
150g light brown sugar
4 Tbsp corn starch
2 Tbsp butter

My filling changes:
1 egg
6oz. cream
¾ tsp vanilla
pinch salt
¾ cup sugar
¼ cup butter
1 1/3 cups flaked, unsweetened coconut (I had both kinds but needed to use up the larger flakes)
¾ cup chopped pecans

Stir together water, sugar, yeast, and melted butter in a bowl or stand mixer and let sit for a few minutes.  Add the flour and salt.  Knead the dough until smooth and elastic.  It may be sticky at first, but kneading will take care of that.  Cover the dough and leave to rise for about 1½ hours or until doubled in volume.

Meanwhile, make the filling.  When using dried coconut (80g), it needs to soak in a bowl with boiling water for 10-15 minutes.  Mix the cornstarch and sugar in a separate bowl before adding it to the coconut.  Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the coconut-sugar mixture and keep it on low heat until it thickens, a few minutes.  Stir frequently to avoid burning.  Take off the heat and leave to cool.  Store in the fridge. 

Directions for my filling:  Whisk together egg, cream and vanilla in a saucepan.  Add sugar, salt and butter.  Cook over medium heat until thickened and light golden, stirring constantly.  It will take 5-10 minutes.  Remove from heat.  Add coconut and pecans, allow to cool.  Store in fridge for longer term storage.

About 30 minutes before assembling the roll, take the filling out of the fridge.  Stir in the remaining 2 Tbsp of coconut.   The filling may be stiff if it is still chilled, but it will soften with stirring.  Set aside filling.

Divide the dough in two parts. Roll the first piece out into a rectangle of 30x16 cm. (12x6 in)  Cut it lengthwise in two equal parts, so you have two long thin strips. Place a quarter of the filling evenly over the middle of the strip.  The filling should be fairly dry, don’t place wet filling on the dough.  (I left spaces between the filling so I could more easily seal the buns once I cut them apart.  That's a lot of filling but I was able to fold over the long edge and seal.)

Flip over one long side of the dough over the filling, then flip over the other side. The two sides should slightly overlap.  Close the seam by pinching the dough together.  (I kind of just folded it all over in half and sealed at the edges.  You do need to be careful about getting a good seal and not using too much filling.  If you look at my chocolate buns with a good seal and my regular buns when I either didn't seal well enough or used too much filling... yeah.  They leak.  But it makes nice little florentine crisps to eat!  The original filling is stiffer and will not be quite so prone to leaking.)

Turn the roll seam side down. Cut the roll into three equal parts. Push the filling back a little, so you can close the cut sides, so the filling is not visible and can’t leak out. (Leave a space, it's easier.)

I did try making a larger one with one of the divided rectangles and folding over like a letter, you can see it in the top pictures.  Also rolled one up cinnamon roll style, sliced, and baked them off in a mini muffin tin.

Repeat filling and shaping with the next strip, then with the remaining piece of dough.  Place the rolls, 4 cm apart, on parchment lined baking sheets.  Cover them with plastic wrap and leave to rise for 35-45 minutes. They are ready when a slight indentation remains when gently pressing with a finger.

Preheat the oven to 190ºC, 375ºF, while the rolls are rising.

Bake the rolls for about 15-18 minutes until they are golden brown.  (If you bake on two sheets, switch their places after 8 minutes for more even baking.) 

Let the rolls cool on a wire rack. Eat them warm or at room temperature. 

(Adapted from: “De kunst van het bakken” – J. Alfort & N. Duguid)

Thursday, September 1, 2016

Airy Lace Rolls

I've seen this recipe floating around on Pinterest, posted by quite a few different websites.  I'm fairly certain that the original was posted in or near Russia by a baker named Dobraya Feya.  I tracked down the site and had it roughly translated, so I want to give her link the full credit it deserves!  I made a light spelt version of her beautiful rolls and my eldest has been begging me to make more of them.  They make a rich, brioche like dough.  Not very sweet, but very satisfying.  

 Photo credit to original poster

Above is the picture from the original post and Pinterest, and they are beautifully formed.  Spelt rises a bit more exuberantly so mine weren't quite so defined.

They froze nicely, but the richness of the dough means they won't last more than a day or so at room temperature.  I made a few minis in a standard muffin liner, but not actually in the tin, so they could spread a bit.

I will have to make another batch soon to keep in the freezer, because these will be nice for grabbing while heading out the door to school or whatever.  R just ate them plain, without even butter on them and was very happy.  I liked them with a little spread of butter.

Here is the original recipe with my adaptations marked in blue.  They really are lovely little rolls, the dough is easy to work with and only the shaping takes a bit of extra time.

Airy Lace Rolls
350 g flour (I used light spelt flour)
80 g soft butter (I used salted butter and added ¼ tsp salt since the original called for salt but did not list it)
2 egg yolks (I used 1 whole egg)
140 grams of warm milk (110g if using spelt flour)
3 tbsp sugar + 1 tsp, divided
1 packet of vanilla sugar (9g) (I used a pinch of vanilla powder and an extra 1 tbsp sugar)
10 grams of yeast (This is equivalent to 3½ tsp dry yeast which I reduced to 3 tsp)

Whole milk to glaze the rolls before baking

Powdered sugar for garnish

In a bowl, combine the milk, 1 tsp sugar, and yeast.  Cover and let stand for 5 minutes to activate the yeast.  In a stand mixer, combine the yeast mixture, flour, salt and egg.  Combine with a spoon until the dough is raggedy and hard to stir.  Add the softened butter in pieces and knead with dough hook.  Knead for 10 minutes.  (Only 5-7 minutes for spelt.)  Cover and let rest in a warm area for 1-2 hours until the dough has doubled in size.

To form the rolls:

Punch down the dough and divide in half.  Working with one piece at a time, roll out the dough to between 3/16" and ¼" thickness.  Cut out circles of about 5cm diameter (that's about 2 inches).  I found a little yogurt jar that had approximately the correct diameter, or maybe closer to 2½", and used that.

Line up three circles of dough, overlapping the edges slightly and pressing together.

Roll them up in a spiral and cut in half at the center.  This will give two little rosettes to use for the rolls.

Repeat with the rest of the dough.  To make single rolls, use three rosettes in standard muffin liners, spreading out the liners to provide a gentle shape and hold them together.

To make a more impressive and larger roll, use a lined brioche tin or, as I did, a lined or greased 4 to 5-inch springform or tart pan.

Let the rolls rise again, covered, until they are puffy and then lightly brush with whole milk.  Bake for 15-20 minutes in 350ºF oven until light golden.  Cool on a wire rack and dust with powdered sugar.  Or leave plain and use as impressive dinner rolls.

Either way, they are very tasty!


Tuesday, August 16, 2016

BBB makes Beignets - my first deep fried experience

Well this was a first for me, I've never actually deep fried before.  Pan-fried, but not deep fried.  My kids were excited to try these out and started quoting lines from Disney's Princess and the Frog, about "man-catching beignets".  They both really liked how they turned out too!  I made mine with light spelt flour and ended up having to add twice as much almost to end up with something still sticky but at least not like batter.  I thought I had reduced the liquid enough but apparently not.  So they turned out slightly chewy.  Great flavor, but I am thinking they should be more tender and melt in the mouth, like a raised yeast donut.  Having never had one, I don't know what the texture should be!  They were delicious though.

I have a gas stove and wasn't all that keen on the thought of deep frying over an open flame source, so I grabbed an inexpensive and small deep fryer from amazon.  I was very pleased with how it worked, especially the fact that it didn't heat up the kitchen at all, since it is sweltering this week.  Next time I may leave the dough super sticky and just make sure to flour the board extremely well.  I kind of did my own thing with the recipe, hardly reading the directions for forming the dough and just throwing it together as usual.  It was pretty forgiving considering the crazy morning I had while making it.  Our kitty, who had escaped and been missing for three days, turned up in a neighbor's yard, they called us, and she promptly disappeared.  So we called and tapped food cans for her for half an hour while my dough sat out, forgotten.  I had made it the night before anyway though and just stuck it in the fridge, so all it did was happily come to room temperature.  Then, an hour later, she turned up in a live trap that our friends had lent us, so my cut squares again were forgotten for 20 minutes.  Our family was noticeably happier today with kitty safely back inside.  We thought, (the adults at least), that she was gone for good.  All that to say, even with all the abuse, the recipe still turned out some great fried dough!

If you want to try your hand at deep frying and see what all the other babes have come up with for their beignets, please bake along with us as a buddy this month!  You don't have to turn on the oven even!  Perks are bragging rights for awesome beignets, tasty fried dough treats, and a buddy badge to add to your post.  All you have to do is make some beignets between now and the 29th, and send your picture and/or post to the host kitchen at Feeding My Enthusiasms.  There are many options, powdered sugar, cinnamon sugar, banana filled, savory, whatever you can imagine.  Ooo, Nutella filled...  Yes, I felt it prudent to only make half a batch.

makes 16-18
adapted from Martha Stewart

1 (¼-oz) pkg. active dry yeast
¾ cup warm water (about 110 degrees)
¼ cup sugar
3 ½ cups all-purpose flour, plus more for surface and baking sheet
¾ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
½ cup whole milk
1 large egg

8 cups safflower oil for frying (my little fryer uses 2 cups oil - I used a combination of refined coconut, canola, and avocado oil)
1-2 bananas (optional)
Confectioners' sugar and/or cinnamon sugar, for coating

For the dough:

Activate the yeast with the water and sugar, in the bowl of a stand mixer.  Let it stand until foamy, about 5 minutes.  In another bowl, whisk together flour, salt, and nutmeg.  Add the soft butter and egg to the yeast mixture and whisk lightly with a fork before adding the milk.  Mix in 1½ cups of the flour mixture to combine, then add 1¾ cups more flour mixture and mix until incorporated.  The dough will be quite sticky.  Turn out the dough onto a well floured surface. Knead in remaining ¼ cup flour mixture by hand until the dough is smooth, about 5 minutes. 

Place dough in a bowl, covered loosely with plastic wrap.  Let it stand in a warm, draft-free spot until doubled in size, about 1 hour.   (I stuck mine directly in the fridge overnight and let it come to room temperature in the morning.)  Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and punch down. Use a bench scraper to cut dough in half if making two kinds of beignets. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out one portion of dough into a 9-inch square.  Using a pizza wheel or sharp knife, cut the dough into approximately 3-inch squares.  Transfer squares to a floured baking sheet and cover loosely with plastic wrap.  Let rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 30 minutes.  (I've seen some of the refrigerated recipes call for frying the dough while still cold.  I am glad I let mine proof until puffy.)

Roll out the second portion of dough into a 9-inch by 18-inch rectangle.  Place banana slices in square groups of four slices on one half of the dough, leaving a small space between groups of bananas.  Fold the other half of the dough over the bananas.  Press down using the edge of your hand between the groups of bananas to seal.  Cut between the groups using the pizza wheel or a sharp knife. Transfer banana squares to a floured baking sheet and cover loosely with plastic wrap.  Let rise in a warm, draft-free spot for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat oil in a medium pot or deep-fryer until it registers 350ºF on a deep-fry thermometer. 

Working in batches, add a few squares to the oil and fry, rolling them around constantly with a slotted spoon or spider, until golden brown all over, 1 to 2 minutes.  (I just fried them one side at a time and flipped when they were light golden.  Too dark and they got a bit too chewy in the crust.)

Transfer beignets to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Coat with confectioners' sugar (regular beignets) or cinnamon sugar (banana beignets), and repeat process with remaining dough and more confectioners' sugar.  (If you want them to be perfect squares, you can slice off any rounded edges and fry them up for tasty testers!)

Beignets are best served fresh and warm.  We really enjoyed them.  All in one day.  As it should be.  Again, half batch for a reason.

Saturday, July 16, 2016

What's a Bialy?? The BBB make Bialys!


Our challenge this month comes from Poland!  I've never been to New York much less Poland, or anywhere you might find a bialy, so this was my first exposure to these oniony delights.  You might liken it somewhat to an onion bagel, but that would be selling it quite short.  My prejudice against bagels is that they are too dense and chewy.  Almost universally hard on the jaw from my experience.  Bagels are boiled and then baked, which is what gives them their characteristic shiny crust.  Bagels and bialys are both Polish pastries, but the bialy is baked only, and has less flour.  This gives it a matte crust and a lighter texture, though it is still nicely chewy.  It also has a depression instead of a hole.  This is almost always filled with onions, garlic, poppy seed, breadcrumbs, or some combination thereof.  

My variation was traditional onion and poppy seed and based largely on the classic bialys recipe posted by King Arthur.  I used half all purpose flour and half light spelt flour, plus a bit of sourdough starter.  Delightful flavor and texture.  It was absolutely stellar dipped in our stew for lunch!  My youngest really liked the bread, but not the filling, so when I found cast off bits of bialy that had filling touching them from the ones she had been sneaking, I banned her from the bread board and made them disappear.  Really, imagine not liking caramelized onions, whose child is this?!  Maybe it was the poppy seeds.  If I left them plain or tried breadcrumbs, I'm sure she would be noshing on these constantly.  My kids have always liked chewy breads.  Eldest raved about them, especially after dipping in the stew gravy.

To see the variations presented by the host kitchen, go to judy's gross eats.  She tested two versions, one with a sourdough starter/poolish, and one with a preferment.   My version utilized an overnight rise in the fridge, and it filled my stand mixer bowl by morning.  These won't last quite as long as bagels, but they freeze and reheat wonderfully and are supposedly great split and toasted with butter.  As to whether to eat around the filling and save it for last, or dig straight in, I ripped mine apart and savored the filling part first, then enjoyed the chewy roll part.  We would love for you to bake along with us this month!  Just pick a day or two between now and the 29th to bake them up, then send an email to our host kitchen with your post and/or picture to be included in the buddy round-up.

Classic Bialys
Adapted from King arthur
makes 12 bialys

843g flour (I used 400g light spelt and 443g all purpose)
2 ¾ tsp salt
1 ¼ tsp instant yeast (I used 1½ tsp active dry because I'm out of instant, boohoo!)
½ tsp onion powder
510g water (I used about 490g water and a large spoonful of unfed sourdough starter.)

1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
1 teaspoon poppy seeds
¼ teaspoon salt
3 to 4 grinds fresh black pepper
14g olive oil (I ended up using three to four times this much)
farina or cornmeal for pans

For the dough:  Combine the flour, salt, yeast, and onion powder in the bowl of a stand mixer.  With a dough hook, add the water (and sourdough starter) and mix until just combined, 1 or 2 minutes at low speed.  Stop the mixer and let sit for 20 minutes, covered. (This is perfect treatment for spelt flour)

Now uncover the bowl and knead at medium speed for 4-8 minutes, or until the dough is smooth and elastic.  (Less time for spelt, longer for all purpose.)

Cover and refrigerate the dough overnight for a slow rise that will develop the dough's flavor.

(Start the filling before taking the dough out of the fridge.)
Next day, divide the dough into 12 pieces (I divided mine by weight) and round each into a ball.  Place on a lightly oiled baking sheet or oiled parchment, cover with greased plastic wrap, and let rise at room temperature for 1 hour or until puffy.

Preheat the oven to 475°F.

For the filling:  Pulse the onion in a food processor or blender until very finely chopped, but not liquid.  Mix in the poppy seed, salt, and pepper.  Heat the oil in a saucepan and cook the onion mixture for a few minutes over medium-low heat until the liquid cooks off and the onion is very slightly caramelized.  (A few minutes is simply not correct, this took at least 40 minutes for me and much more oil to help the onions move and caramelize, even after moving the heat closer to medium.)  Remove from heat and allow to cool.  (This is why you start it before taking out the dough, so you don't burn your fingers filling the first batch with your just caramelized onion mixture!)

To shape and bake: Lightly sprinkle 2 baking sheets with farina or cornmeal, or line with parchment paper.  Take each dough ball and stretch it into a bagel shape about 6" to 7" in diameter, without puncturing the center, and leaving a wide, flat indentation where the hole would be. Place a few inches apart on the prepared baking sheets, 6 per pan. 

Place a scant teaspoon of the onion filling in the indentation and spread it out with your fingers. Don't overfill; a little goes a long way.  (I technically used a bit too much with a generous tsp instead of a scant one.)

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until light golden brown. Remove the bialys from the oven and serve warm, or cool on a rack and save for toasting later. 

A little tip from the bakers at King Arthur:  "Resist the temptation to be generous with the onions: the moisture in them can keep the center of the bialy from cooking at the same speed as the edges, causing the center to puff up like a topknot."

(My youngest happily ate an entire reheated bialy today, after I had scraped the filling out.  Oy vey.)

Thursday, June 16, 2016

The BBB bakes Bran Bread

I laughed when I saw my title for our Bread Baking Babes recipe was BBB BBB.  It's kind of funny, right, or am I just too easily amused?  Well, our challenge was to go healthy this month.  Fiber and whole grains are a nutritional buzzword, pushed by doctors and the AHA for their health benefits.  However, they are not necessarily easy to eat.  I decided to make it easier on my tummy with all that whole wheat and bran, and did a soaked version.  Same recipe, slightly different method.  The soaking gives the phytase enzyme, already there in the grain, time to deactivate the enzyme inhibitors and phytic acid in the wholemeal flour that will bind minerals and prevent absorption.  It also makes the protein easier to digest and makes nutrients more bio-available than conventional short method baking.  My girls and I tested wheat sensitive, which is why I usually go with spelt or all purpose flour which has fewer of the reactive proteins.  But we can eat a soaked method loaf without a tummy ache.  Here's to traditional methods, I guess they knew what they were doing!  It also seems that the soaked method, for me, has been less likely to produce a brick.  You know, what people expect from a 100% whole wheat loaf:  a heavy, dense bread with perhaps a bitter flavor, and not the most palatable thing to eat.  Of course modern palates are not used to that flavor any more either.  I choose hard white wheat flour for that reason.  It is still 100% whole grain, but the flavor profile has less of that red wheat bitterness and its baking properties are closer to all purpose as well.  You can use orange juice to successfully offset and neutralize some of the whole wheat flavor in many recipes though.

I did use a portion of wholemeal emmer flour that actually has a rather coarse grind and much darker color, but is not reactive to us because it is an ancient grain like spelt.  They're all related - spelt, emmer, farro, einkorn; early forms of wheat before the hybridization that has risen to our modern wheat.  The protein was not nearly as strong, which is why they can be tricky to work with if you're only used to all purpose flour.  The bran in whole grain flour also has a tendency to cut the gluten strands that give a loaf structure.  This is one of the reasons whole wheat bread tends to be heavy.  There are ways around that, such as sifting out the bran and adding it in later, proper hydration of the dough before kneading, folding instead of kneading, things like that.  I think that is why soaking helps lighten a whole meal loaf.  I used oat bran instead of wheat bran in my loaf and found that it does not absorb nearly as much water as wheat bran.  So I ended up having to add in another 100g flour and ¼ cup sprouted rolled oats to make up for the extra water I added for the bran.  I let the dough stay on the slightly sticky side, but it was still willing to mostly clean the edge of the mixing bowl.  On the next day, I added three additional folds to strengthen and align the gluten so it would be able to rise and give a nicer dome to the loaf.  Since I ended up with two loaves, I gave one to a friend for her family to try out.  They messaged me the next morning saying that they had really liked it and thank you!  Hooray, success!  I tried it toasted and it was very good.  My mom would really love this bread, especially since I used dates instead of raisins.  (Didn't have enough raisins.)  I made sandwich loaves, but the original recipe actually called for free form rounds.  Oops.  Turned out fine anyway.

If you are hankering to try out a nice, healthy whole grain bread, please bake along with us!  You can try my soaked version, or go to the host kitchen at Notitie Van Lien to see the original.  Bake it and submit your picture and/or blog post to her by the 29th and you will get a Buddy Badge to display and be included in a buddy round up.

Whole Wheat Bran Bread
makes 2 loaves

500g whole wheat flour (I used 100g emmer and 400g white whole wheat + an extra 100g for my extra water)
350-400g water (I started with 350 and added 100 for the bran.  Didn't need that much for oat bran.)
2 tsp (10 ml) apple cider vinegar (more for soaked method, but also helps strengthen gluten in whole wheat loaves)
50-100g (organic) wheat bran (I used 50g oat bran + ¼ cup sprouted rolled oats.)
  • up to 200g extra water per 50g wheat bran used (oat bran may only require equal portions water)
20g fresh yeast, or 6-7g instant yeast
1 tbsp malt flour, light or dark (or honey) (I used ½ tbsp barley malt + a tsp of honey and tbsp muscovado sugar) 
30g butter
1½ tsp fine sea salt
50g milk powder (optional, or use a portion of milk for the water) (I used my whole goat milk powder)
200g walnuts or raisins (or both, ½ and ½) (I used chopped deglet noor dates)

See the original post for standard recipe instructions.

Soaked method:

Combine flour, water, bran, malt or honey, butter, salt, and milk powder in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook.  Mix until fully incorporated and let rest for 10-15 minutes.  Check the consistency to see if it needs more water for the bran.  (Mine needed more flour because of the difference in absorption between oat and wheat bran.)  Mix until the dough starts to clean the edges of the bowl and pull away.  It should still be slightly sticky but more interested in sticking to itself than a finger.  Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature until next day.

The next day, dissolve yeast in a small dish with a tbsp water and ½ tsp honey until foamy.  Mix into the dough on low speed until evenly incorporated and dough pulls away from edges again.  Cover and let rest for 30 minutes.  Turn out onto a floured board and press out and gently pull into a rectangle.  (For me, the dough was slightly slack but not too sticky with a floured board.)  Fold in long edges to the center, turn and press down slightly, then fold in the other edges again to the center.  Place, seam side down, in the bowl again.  Repeat this twice more for a total of three folds.

Divide the dough and dates in two and place one dough back in the bowl.  Give the first dough another fold, then roll out into a rectangle, 8 inches wide.  Sprinkle with 2/3 of the chopped dates for that loaf.  Lightly press them down and fold the dough in half.  Gently roll it out again and sprinkle evenly with the remaining dates for that loaf.  Roll up the dough, jelly roll style and pinch the seam together.  Place seam side down in a buttered 8x4" loaf pan.  Cover.  Repeat with remaining dough and dates.

Preheat oven to 400º F.  Let loaves rise, covered, until dough has crested the edge of the pan by about ½-¾".  These are not huge loaves.  Throw some steam on for the first 5-10 minutes if desired.  (Heat a metal tin in the oven while preheating and toss some water in it and quickly close the door.)  Bake for around 30 minutes until well browned and done.  (At least 190-200ºF internal temp.)  You may turn down the heat to 350º during the last 5-10 minutes of baking, or tent with foil if the crust is getting too dark.  Turn out the loaves to cool on a rack.  Make sure the bread has completely cooled before slicing.

Makes wonderful toast!
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